Kashmir: Crossroads of Cultures: Situated on the north-west of the Indian subcontinent, the picture-postcard beauty of Kashmir valley is breathtaking
Recent newspaper reports that over a million tourists from different parts of India visited the Kashmir valley this summer set me reminiscing about my travels to this amazingly beautiful part of the subcontinent.
The director of tourism in Kashmir, Farooq Shah, recently said, “This is the highest number of tourist arrivals recorded in the past 25 years. It has been a very good season for us. But Kashmir’s potential is unparalleled and we hope to do more work.”
Another optimistic official said, “There has been a lot of improvement in infrastructure and, with the new rail link, we hope to cross the 10 million mark (of tourists) by 2012.”
One hopes that the politicians can, after years of conflict, arrive at a lasting solution to the vexing ‘Kashmir issue’ and the peace-loving citizens can, once again, begin to enjoy the economic benefits of tourism.
The capital of Kashmir, the city of Srinagar, has a long history dating back to the 3rd century BC.
It has been known by different names over the centuries. It was founded by King Pravarasena II over 2,000 years ago and was then a part of the Maurya Empire, one of the largest empires of the Indian subcontinent. Ashoka introduced Buddhism to the Kashmir valley and the regions around the city became the centre of Buddhism.
In the 1st century AD, Kashmir was under the control of the Kushans and the rulers of this dynasty strengthened the Buddhist traditions. Vikramaditya (of Ujjain) and his successors probably ruled the area just before the city fell to the Huns in the 6th century.
Over the past few hundred years, the Kashmir region changed hands several times between the Mughals and the Sikhs (under Ranjeet Singh) before finally coming under the rule of the Hindu kings within British India.
The charm of staying on a houseboat, which provides the unique experience of living on the water in a walnut and cedar wood-panelled elegant boat with all the conveniences of a luxury hotel, attracts travellers to Srinagar. Every houseboat has a balcony in front, a lounge and dining room, and three or more bedrooms with attached bathrooms.
Srinagar’s several hundred houseboats are moored along sections of the Dal and Nagin Lakes and along the River Jhelum that flows through the heart of the city. Each is richly decorated and romantically named.
All houseboats, regardless of category, have highly personalised service with the owner and his family usually in attendance.
Houseboats were introduced accidentally to Kashmir when members of the Indian Civil Service serving in the hot plains who went on regular vacations to Kashmir were not permitted to build permanent homes there because of the Maharaja’s suspicion of British presence in Srinagar.
The government officials chose to stay in houseboats. The first boat, named Victory, was designed by MT Kenhard in 1888.
Drive up the hill on the edge of Srinagar’s famous Dal Lake to visit the Shankaracharya temple regarded as the oldest shrine in the Kashmir valley. With commanding views of the city and its lakes, this is a must-do for all travellers.
Srinagar’s famous Dal Lake, with a shoreline of 15km, has a boulevard lined with Mughal era gardens, parks and hotels on one side and houseboats and floating kitchen gardens on the opposite shore.
The Lake covers an area of 18sq km and is part of a natural wetland which includes floating gardens known as ‘Rad’ in Kashmiri which bloom with lotus flowers in late summer.
At present, the Dal Lake and some of the Mughal gardens are undergoing extensive restoration. The gardens of Srinagar reflect the sense of beauty and the lavish styles of the Mughal era in India. One of them, the Nishat Bagh (garden), was laid by Asif Khan, the brother of Nur Jehan, in 1633. The Zabarwan Hills provide a spectacular backdrop to this beautiful garden located on the banks of the Dal Lake.
Opposite the Nishat Bagh, the shining white dome of Hazratbal Mosque stands on the north-western bank of the Dal Lake. With the backdrop of the snow-capped mountains, this is perhaps the holiest of Islamic shrines and preserves a strand of Prophet Mohammed’s sacred hair.
It is also where Sufism, a mystic tradition which believes in the brotherhood of man and preaches divine love, thrived.
Kashmir has been endowed with a rich Sufi tradition and the landscape is dotted by many Sufi shrines held in high esteem by people of all faiths.
Shalimar Garden, second in size among the Mughal gardens at Srinagar, was built by Emperor Jahangir for his wife, Nur Jahan. This Garden is marked by terraces that are separated by water channels.
Chashmashahi, the smallest amongst the Mughal gardens of Srinagar, is famous for its springs.
Ride the fancifully-named shikara boats used as water taxis by locals and visitors. The experience of gliding smoothly over the calm waters of Dal Lake as the boatman rows you along with the heart-shaped paddle is not to be missed.
While in the valley, make sure you try the aromatic Kashmiri cuisine, rich with the flavours of cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and saffron. Kashmiri food can be the simple family meal or a 36-course wedding banquet called the Wazwan.
Kahwah or Kashmiri tea, traditionally prepared in a brass kettle known as the samovar, is served in tiny, shallow cups. Kahwah is made by boiling green tea leaves with saffron, cinnamon and cardamom pods, sweetened with sugar and crushed almonds or walnuts added for flavour.
About 50km away, Gulmarg boasts Asia’s highest and longest cable-car project —the Gulmarg gondola— completed in 2004. In two stages, the cable car takes skiers and visitors to a height of 12,293ft (3,747metres) to a shoulder of Afarwat Mountain overlooking Gulmarg.
The flower-decorated meadows of Gulmarg transform into some of Asia’s best ski slopes in winter where you can either take lessons or ski with the regulars. The skiing season starts around Christmas and runs through to mid-March. Apart from the cost of the lessons, be prepared to pay Rs500 a day for ski/snowboard hire and another Rs1,250 for an unlimited use of the gondola day-pass.
The resort of Pahalgam, located in the Lidder valley 96km to the south-east and a pleasant three-hour drive from Srinagar, is another destination that is worth a few days’ visit.
One of the starting points of the pilgrim route to the holy cave of Amarnath.
Pahalgam is surrounded by forest-covered mountains where you can take pony rides, picnic on the banks of the Lidder River, lie in the sun next to your cottage with a book, play a game of cards with friends and, finally, stroll down to the main street to buy some exquisite Kashmiri handicrafts.
Twelve kilometres further up the valley is the tiny village of Aru with stone and wood houses, some built in the typical Gujjar-shepherd style. In this stunning Alpine setting, you can only marvel at the picture-postcard landscape.
Kashmiri handicrafts are prized for their craftsmanship. Kashmir carpets, knitted in wool and silk with Persian designs, are a lifetime investment; they range from the simple to the most extraordinarily intricate patterns handed down several generations.
There are papier-mâché items from jewellery boxes to mirror frames, intricately carved walnut-wood furniture and accessories, stone jewellery boxes, beautiful pashmina shawls, crewel embroidery on furnishing material and so much more.
With such beauty to enjoy just a short journey away from wherever you are in India, there is every reason to book your travel to Kashmir.
When Go There: A visit to this visually stunning part of India is best made after the summer crowds have left and tranquillity returns to the valley. Spring and autumn are best, particularly October, when Kashmir’s famed chinar trees are clothed in their rich golden foliage.
Getting There: The easiest route is to fly to Srinagar; most airlines offer several flights every day. Alternatively, Jammu Tawi, a major railway junction, and Udhampur, Srinagar’s nearest railhead (302km), have several trains coming from most parts of India. From Jammu Tawi and Udhampur, luxury coaches, buses, shared and regular taxis are available.
Where To Stay: Hotel and houseboat accommodation and local travel arrangements are best arranged through a reliable tour operator. A list of hotels and houseboats is available on the official www.jktourism.org and www.houseboatowners.org. Local transport can easily be booked either through your hotel or from the local central taxi-stand.
[Picture: Hazratbal Mosque, Srinagar. Photo: Wiki.]
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1 comment:
Very, very interesting!!!! Mashallah...
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