By Kathy Hamilton - Today's Zaman - Istanbul, TurkeyThursday, July 19, 2007
One of the best places for an escape from the heat of the day, or the overexertion from shopping in the Grand Bazaar, is Çorlulu Alipaşa Medresesi, built between 1707 and 1708, under the auspices of the grand vizier to Ahmet III, Ali Paşa of Çorlu.
Originally built as a medrese, or theological school, it also served as a Qadiri Sufi tekke, or dervish lodge. When all the Sufi orders were closed after the beginning of the republic, this tekke’s doors closed too.
The cells that had once housed religious students and dervishes were rented out to shoe makers.
During the 1960s and early 1970s it was converted into student dormitories. In the mid-1970s its current incarnation began as it became a local center for carpet sellers and restorers.
The enchanting nargile garden, entered through an archway from the tram street, is one of the main reasons people stop here. Wisps of the softly scented tobaccos waft overhead and fill the air with their aromas. This shady garden is the ideal site for unwinding over a glass of tea or coffee. Water pipes are not smoked to relieve tension, but instead, are a way to linger with friends old and new and pass the time.
There is no hurry here -- everyone is welcome to stay for as long as they like, perhaps striking up conversations and friendships with their neighbors at the next table who also appreciate the art of relaxation.
The second side of the medrese is often overlooked by tourists, but it draws carpet dealers, textile collectors and museum curators from around the world. While life in the first courtyard revolves around the leisurely pace of the tea garden, this part of the complex is centered on carpets and kilims, flat woven rugs. The restorers in this area are known worldwide for their exacting work.
In nice weather you can find them huddled over carpets spread out in the courtyard next to the small mosque. If you’re lucky, you may even find Sufi story teller, amateur historian, actor and renowned carpet expert Abdullah Gündoğdu working in his shop or tending the flower garden.
This is an ideal place to look at carpets in a hassle-free environment and ask questions. In contrast to the bazaar and Sultanahmet carpet stores with salesmen trying to lure in customers, here the atmosphere is so easygoing that it sometimes seems that the shopkeepers are more intent on visiting and sipping tea than concentrating on making sales to the few tourists who happen to wander through.
This famous setting is well worth the visit. The ambiance evokes a sense of nostalgia for İstanbul as it was before the tour busses and millions of residents arrived to quicken the pace of everyday life. Here is a place to withdraw from sensory overload and stress while calmly reflecting on events of the day and letting your biggest worry be which flavor of tobacco and what type of tea you will have next.
The easiest way to get to Çorlulu Alipaşa Medresesi is by tram. The archways leading to the courtyards face Yeniçeriler Caddesi, the tramway street. From the Çemberlitaş stop, walk towards to Grand Bazaar. The entrance will be on the right side. From the Beyazıt tram stop, walk past the entrance to the bazaar and the medrese will be on the left. The nargile garden is open daily from mid-morning until past midnight.
[Picture: The nargile garden has long been known as a favorite hang out for university professors, students and tourists.]
One of the best places for an escape from the heat of the day, or the overexertion from shopping in the Grand Bazaar, is Çorlulu Alipaşa Medresesi, built between 1707 and 1708, under the auspices of the grand vizier to Ahmet III, Ali Paşa of Çorlu.
Originally built as a medrese, or theological school, it also served as a Qadiri Sufi tekke, or dervish lodge. When all the Sufi orders were closed after the beginning of the republic, this tekke’s doors closed too.
The cells that had once housed religious students and dervishes were rented out to shoe makers.
During the 1960s and early 1970s it was converted into student dormitories. In the mid-1970s its current incarnation began as it became a local center for carpet sellers and restorers.
The enchanting nargile garden, entered through an archway from the tram street, is one of the main reasons people stop here. Wisps of the softly scented tobaccos waft overhead and fill the air with their aromas. This shady garden is the ideal site for unwinding over a glass of tea or coffee. Water pipes are not smoked to relieve tension, but instead, are a way to linger with friends old and new and pass the time.
There is no hurry here -- everyone is welcome to stay for as long as they like, perhaps striking up conversations and friendships with their neighbors at the next table who also appreciate the art of relaxation.
The second side of the medrese is often overlooked by tourists, but it draws carpet dealers, textile collectors and museum curators from around the world. While life in the first courtyard revolves around the leisurely pace of the tea garden, this part of the complex is centered on carpets and kilims, flat woven rugs. The restorers in this area are known worldwide for their exacting work.
In nice weather you can find them huddled over carpets spread out in the courtyard next to the small mosque. If you’re lucky, you may even find Sufi story teller, amateur historian, actor and renowned carpet expert Abdullah Gündoğdu working in his shop or tending the flower garden.
This is an ideal place to look at carpets in a hassle-free environment and ask questions. In contrast to the bazaar and Sultanahmet carpet stores with salesmen trying to lure in customers, here the atmosphere is so easygoing that it sometimes seems that the shopkeepers are more intent on visiting and sipping tea than concentrating on making sales to the few tourists who happen to wander through.
This famous setting is well worth the visit. The ambiance evokes a sense of nostalgia for İstanbul as it was before the tour busses and millions of residents arrived to quicken the pace of everyday life. Here is a place to withdraw from sensory overload and stress while calmly reflecting on events of the day and letting your biggest worry be which flavor of tobacco and what type of tea you will have next.
The easiest way to get to Çorlulu Alipaşa Medresesi is by tram. The archways leading to the courtyards face Yeniçeriler Caddesi, the tramway street. From the Çemberlitaş stop, walk towards to Grand Bazaar. The entrance will be on the right side. From the Beyazıt tram stop, walk past the entrance to the bazaar and the medrese will be on the left. The nargile garden is open daily from mid-morning until past midnight.
[Picture: The nargile garden has long been known as a favorite hang out for university professors, students and tourists.]
Posts
No comments:
Post a Comment