Wells, Faqirs and Shrines

By Manzoor Qadir, "Roaming Around Lahore Takias no more: Lahore robbed of its tradition" - The Post - Lahore, Punjab, Pakistan
Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Lahore: Long, long ago, a tourist visiting Lahore saw sprawling, green and blossoming gardens all around the city and exclaimed, "Lahore is the city of gardens".

It appears that he had somehow failed to visit Lahore's Takias (rest houses). Had he cared to observe the kaleidoscopic range of Takias in Lahore, he would have declared otherwise.

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In the good old days, Takias had great importance. All the doors of the city were closed just after the evening as a rule. Those travelers, who arrived at night could not enter city. So they use to stay in these Takias at night, where Takia attendants used to serve them well. The gates of the city were opened when the dawn broke.

Then these travelers entered the city. Besides, a new comer with no relative in the city used to stay in these Takias free of cost.

The duration of the stay at these rest houses was not limited as the person could stay here as long as he wished though he had to prove that he harbored no ill intentions. It is roughly estimated that Lahore had over one hundred Takias, most of which were named after the resident Faqirs as well as Sufi shrines.

During day time, elders and youth of adjacent areas used to pass their free moments or leisure in these Takias. Every Takia had a well of cold water, a Shrine or living Sufi, arena, a mosque, a bathroom and a sufficient place to take rest or to play indoor games were the main features of Takia.

Here people took baths and enjoyed Chausar (a game played with shells), chess and playing cards sitting on rugs. Thus these Takias were like clubs. These Takias served as community centres too because marriages, funerals and functions were held here. Punchayits were held for deciding minor disputes.

Every Takia had an arena for exercise where people use to take exercise and learn the art of wrestling. In modern terminology, these Takias were health clubs. The people here also loved to drink Sardai (a traditional drink of Lahorites that is made with milk, almonds and some seeds).

Gradually, time changed and Takias too were affected by the change. In no time, Bhang addicts and other types of dubious characters occupied these Takias. Elite of the city gave up sitting in these Takias and Takias visitors were not regarded as good persons. It did not happen to just one or two Takias but the majority of the Takias got afflicted.

(...)

However, a few old people still cherish the memory of these Takias when they had some significance and were considered the best place for the out door activities not only for the young people but also for the elderly people.

Talking to The Post, Muhammad Umar recalled that the senior citizens of the city and its adjacent localities used to hold special Qawali functions at the shrines of Takias and this practice still continues at some Takias.

He said that the Takias were the best choice for the locals to accommodate the guests and to serve them during community functions.

Takia was also a point where the locals gathered for offering prayers, Fateha for the departed souls, exercise, indoor games and Qawwali but alas, the city had been deprived of this institution too like other cherished tradition, he regretted.

Takias loss has robbed the city of its much-prized possession, he ended.