By Gül Demir - Niki Gamm, *Local Istanbul municipality restores tekkes* - Hürriyet Daily News - Istanbul, TurkeySaturday, December 5, 2009
Though few dervish lodges remain in Istanbul as meeting places for Sufi orders, a visit to any of their locations throughout the city can reveal much about the background of the various orders
Though the 1925 ban against Sufi orders meant the closing of all their properties, recent efforts have seen the restoration of many orders’ tekkes, or dervish lodges, throughout Istanbul.
Though few dervish lodges remain in Istanbul as meeting places for Sufi orders, a visit to any of their locations throughout the city can reveal much about the background of the various orders
Though the 1925 ban against Sufi orders meant the closing of all their properties, recent efforts have seen the restoration of many orders’ tekkes, or dervish lodges, throughout Istanbul.
For centuries, the architecture of the sects’ lodges was often dictated by the practices of the sects themselves. The more elaborate the tekke, the wealthier the people who subscribed to that sect – even though many of these mystic sects called for the renunciation of worldly goods in order to become one with God or the ultimate Truth. The main lodge was usually built where the founder of the mystic sect was buried or vice versa.
Tekke architecture
Generally speaking, tekkes were made of wood and sometimes stone, depending on the amount of money and materials available. Even when quite large, they were not especially imposing buildings, yet all had a large room that formed the central portion of the lodge where the members would gather for various ceremonies. This large hall might be round, octagonal or even multi-sided to represent any of the numbers the group held holy.
There would be standing room or possibly sitting space to observe the participants. When a sect combined music with its ritual ceremonies, there would be space for the musicians. Leading off the main room would be a series of other rooms devoted to various practices, including a kitchen and a refractory, a library and rooms for the leader of the sect or the person in charge of that particular lodge and his family. In addition, there were often also rooms for those studying to become full members of the lodge, or for sect members who were traveling in the area.
Few of the tekke buildings were as elaborate as the one devoted to Rumi in Konya. Because of the veneration for Rumi, the founder of the Mevlevi sect, the original mosque and school greatly expanded over the centuries to incorporate nearby buildings and cemeteries. A better example of a normal Mevlevi tekke is the one found in Istanbul’s Tünel neighborhood.
The building was closed with the banning of Sufi orders in 1925, but from time to time, permission was given for the upkeep of the building. The center in Konya became a museum, as did the one in Tünel. Eventually the Mevlevis were allowed to perform their whirling ritual as a theatrical performance in the Tünel tekke.
If other sects still in existence, albeit unofficially, meet, it is certainly done very discretely.
There was usually no prohibition against women becoming members of the mystic orders. The result was a separate place where women would be segregated, where they could watch the ongoing rites and participate among themselves.
The one sect that included women publicly is the Mevlevis; today, in spite of opposition from more conservative members of the sect, women can be seen participating in the whirling ceremony.
The Eyüp municipality and its tekkes
Generally speaking, tekkes were made of wood and sometimes stone, depending on the amount of money and materials available. Even when quite large, they were not especially imposing buildings, yet all had a large room that formed the central portion of the lodge where the members would gather for various ceremonies. This large hall might be round, octagonal or even multi-sided to represent any of the numbers the group held holy.
There would be standing room or possibly sitting space to observe the participants. When a sect combined music with its ritual ceremonies, there would be space for the musicians. Leading off the main room would be a series of other rooms devoted to various practices, including a kitchen and a refractory, a library and rooms for the leader of the sect or the person in charge of that particular lodge and his family. In addition, there were often also rooms for those studying to become full members of the lodge, or for sect members who were traveling in the area.
Few of the tekke buildings were as elaborate as the one devoted to Rumi in Konya. Because of the veneration for Rumi, the founder of the Mevlevi sect, the original mosque and school greatly expanded over the centuries to incorporate nearby buildings and cemeteries. A better example of a normal Mevlevi tekke is the one found in Istanbul’s Tünel neighborhood.
The building was closed with the banning of Sufi orders in 1925, but from time to time, permission was given for the upkeep of the building. The center in Konya became a museum, as did the one in Tünel. Eventually the Mevlevis were allowed to perform their whirling ritual as a theatrical performance in the Tünel tekke.
If other sects still in existence, albeit unofficially, meet, it is certainly done very discretely.
There was usually no prohibition against women becoming members of the mystic orders. The result was a separate place where women would be segregated, where they could watch the ongoing rites and participate among themselves.
The one sect that included women publicly is the Mevlevis; today, in spite of opposition from more conservative members of the sect, women can be seen participating in the whirling ceremony.
The Eyüp municipality and its tekkes
The Eyüp area is known for its centuries-old buildings erected around the mosque and shrine of Eyüp Sultan, the companion of the Prophet Mohammed who died during one of the early Arab attempts to conquer Constantinople. It was a place where many members of the imperial family lived and were buried, as well as the place where crown princes were girded with a sword that officially made them sultan.
As a religious center, it attracted many mystic sects who set up lodges in and around Eyüp Mosque. Today, many of the old tekke buildings remain, even though they are often found in ruins.
Eyüp’s municipal government has taken advantage of these structures to restore them and use them for other purposes. The first such place was Husrevpaşa Tekke, which was converted into a historical research center. At present, there are seven tekkes in Eyüp that are being restored or are scheduled to undergo renovation.
One of these tekkes is the Vezir Tekke, which was damaged in a fire and is now set for reconstruction as a library. The Balcık Tekke was originally built as a school for learning traditions and is expected to become a handicrafts center. The Kara Süleyman Tekke was originally known as the Haci Ali Tekke. When restored, it will function as a rest home. The Sertarikzade Tekke belonged to one of the most popular Sufi sects following its establishment in the 17th century. Four sultans are said to have belonged to the sect and Sultan Ahmed III was responsible for the construction of its first lodge.
Bahariye Mevlevihanesi used to be located in Beşiktaş, but was moved to Eyüp. Only its small prayer hall remains today. The property belongs to the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality, which wants it turned into a cultural facility. As for the Hatuniye Tekke, only the minaret and cemetery remain. A project has been developed to restore the tekke, but the work has not yet been completed.
One future project is the Afife Hatun Tekkesi, of which only the main hall, or semahane, remains today. This tekke belonged to the Naqshbandi sect and bears the name of the mother of an influential leader of that group. The Foundations Directorate turned it over to the Eyüp municipality, which plans to use it for cultural events. It is expected to be finished by 2010.
Of course Eyüp is not the only municipality that restores tekkes. Two years ago, the Beyoğlu municipality restored and opened the two-story Turabibaba Tekke Library in the Kasımpaşa neighborhood. The tekke building, built in the early 19th century, today houses some 13,000 publications and is well-equipped to provide resources to the people of Beyoğlu.
Not all tekkes have been restored at the hands of local municipalities. One outstanding example is that of the Özbek Tekke at Sultantepe on the Asian side of the city. Founded in the second half of the 18th century, this tekke was built to serve as a center for Uzbek Naqshbandis who undertook the pilgrimage to Mecca every year via Istanbul. On the way, Uzbeks would visit Eyüp, also considered a place of pilgrimage, and pay homage to the sultan reigning at the time.
The last time it was restored, in 1983, it was through the efforts of the late Ahmed Ertegün, the grandson of one of the most important sheiks to lead the Özbek Tekke.
One wishes that more was being done along these lines.
Tekkes in Istanbul belonging to 17 mystic orders*:
As a religious center, it attracted many mystic sects who set up lodges in and around Eyüp Mosque. Today, many of the old tekke buildings remain, even though they are often found in ruins.
Eyüp’s municipal government has taken advantage of these structures to restore them and use them for other purposes. The first such place was Husrevpaşa Tekke, which was converted into a historical research center. At present, there are seven tekkes in Eyüp that are being restored or are scheduled to undergo renovation.
One of these tekkes is the Vezir Tekke, which was damaged in a fire and is now set for reconstruction as a library. The Balcık Tekke was originally built as a school for learning traditions and is expected to become a handicrafts center. The Kara Süleyman Tekke was originally known as the Haci Ali Tekke. When restored, it will function as a rest home. The Sertarikzade Tekke belonged to one of the most popular Sufi sects following its establishment in the 17th century. Four sultans are said to have belonged to the sect and Sultan Ahmed III was responsible for the construction of its first lodge.
Bahariye Mevlevihanesi used to be located in Beşiktaş, but was moved to Eyüp. Only its small prayer hall remains today. The property belongs to the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality, which wants it turned into a cultural facility. As for the Hatuniye Tekke, only the minaret and cemetery remain. A project has been developed to restore the tekke, but the work has not yet been completed.
One future project is the Afife Hatun Tekkesi, of which only the main hall, or semahane, remains today. This tekke belonged to the Naqshbandi sect and bears the name of the mother of an influential leader of that group. The Foundations Directorate turned it over to the Eyüp municipality, which plans to use it for cultural events. It is expected to be finished by 2010.
Of course Eyüp is not the only municipality that restores tekkes. Two years ago, the Beyoğlu municipality restored and opened the two-story Turabibaba Tekke Library in the Kasımpaşa neighborhood. The tekke building, built in the early 19th century, today houses some 13,000 publications and is well-equipped to provide resources to the people of Beyoğlu.
Not all tekkes have been restored at the hands of local municipalities. One outstanding example is that of the Özbek Tekke at Sultantepe on the Asian side of the city. Founded in the second half of the 18th century, this tekke was built to serve as a center for Uzbek Naqshbandis who undertook the pilgrimage to Mecca every year via Istanbul. On the way, Uzbeks would visit Eyüp, also considered a place of pilgrimage, and pay homage to the sultan reigning at the time.
The last time it was restored, in 1983, it was through the efforts of the late Ahmed Ertegün, the grandson of one of the most important sheiks to lead the Özbek Tekke.
One wishes that more was being done along these lines.
Tekkes in Istanbul belonging to 17 mystic orders*:
Kadiri 65
Bedeviyye 8
Bayramiyye 9
Uşaki 6
Gülşeni 6
Sinani 3
Mevlevi 5
Bektaşi 9
Cerahiyye 12
Naqshbandi 95
Rufai 40
Halveti 69
Celvetiyye 31
Şazeli 3
Sünbüliyye 26
Sadiyye 34
Şabaniyye 24
445 total tekkes in Istanbul
*Sufi Istanbul Institute
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